Kanchenjunga in the Himalayan Range, is the third highest mountain in the world (after Mount Everest and K2), with an elevation of 8,586 metres (28,169 ft.). Kanchenjunga translated means “The Five Treasures of Snows”, as it contains five peaks, four of them over 8,450 metres. The treasures represent the five repositories of God, which are gold, silver, gems, grain, and holy books. Kanchenjunga is called Sewalungma in the local Limbu language, translates as ‘Mountain that we offer Greetings to’. Kanchenjunga or Sewalungma is considered sacred in the Kirant religion.
Three of the five peaks (main, central, and south) are on the border of North Sikkim district of Sikkim, India and Taplejung District of Nepal, while the other two are completely in Taplejung District. Nepal is home to the Kanchenjunga Conservation Area Project run by the World Wildlife Fund in association with Government of Nepal. The sanctuary is home to the Red Panda and other montage animals, birds and plants. India’s side of Kanchenjunga also has a protected park area called the Khangchendzonga National Park.
Until 1852, Kanchenjunga was assumed to be the highest mountain in the world, but calculations made by the British Great Trigonometric Survey in 1849 came to the conclusion that Mount Everest (known as Peak XV at the time) was the highest and Kanchenjunga the third-highest.
Kanchenjunga was first climbed on May 25, 1955 by Joe Brown and George Band, who were part of a British expedition. The British expedition honored the beliefs of the Sikkimese, who hold the summit sacred, by stopping a few feet short of the actual summit. Most successful summit parties since then have followed this tradition.
Map of the Indian protected areas of the Kanchenjunga Biosphere Reserve and National Park The five peaks of Kanchenjunga are as follows:
| Name of Peak | Height(m) | Height(ft) |
| Kanchenjunga Main | 8586m | 28,169.ft |
| Kanchenjunga West (Yalung Kang) | 8,505m | 27,904 |
| Kanchenjunga Central (Middle) | 8,482m | 27,828 |
| Kanchenjunga South | 8,494 | 27,867. |
| Kangbachen | 7,903 | 25,925 |
The huge massif of Kanchenjunga is buttressed by great ridges running roughly due east to west and north to south, forming a giant ‘X’. These ridges contain a host of peaks between 6,000 and 8,000 meters. On the East Ridge in Sikkim, is Siniolchu (6,888 m/22,600 ft.). The west ridge culminates in the magnificent Jannu (7,710 m/25,294 ft.) with its imposing north face. To the south, clearly visible are Kabru North (7,338 m/24,075 ft.), Kabru South (7,316 m/24,002 ft.) and Rathong peaks (6,678 m/21,910 ft.). The north ridge, after passing through the minor sub peak Kanchenjunga North (7741 m/25,397 ft.), contains The Twins and Tent Peak, and runs up to the Tibetan border by the Jongsong La, a 6,120 m (20,080 ft.) pass.
Overview
The Kanchenjunga Expedition is a challenging and prestigious mountaineering endeavor that entails climbing to the summit of Mount Kanchenjunga, the third highest peak in the world, standing at an elevation of 8,586 meters (28,169 feet). Located in the eastern Himalayas, on the border between Nepal and the Indian state of Sikkim, Kanchenjunga offers climbers a formidable and remote alpine environment characterized by steep terrain, unpredictable weather, and technical challenges.
The expedition typically begins with thorough preparations in Kathmandu or Gangtok, where climbers organize equipment, acquire necessary permits, and undergo training to acclimatize to high altitudes and develop essential mountaineering skills. Once fully equipped and acclimatized, the team embarks on a journey to the Kanchenjunga region, where the base camp serves as the starting point for the ascent.
The ascent of Kanchenjunga involves a series of challenging climbs through varied terrain, including glaciers, snowfields, and rocky ridges. Climbers must navigate crevasses, icefalls, and avalanches, employing technical climbing techniques such as fixed rope ascents, ice climbing, and rock scrambling to progress safely.
Throughout the expedition, climbers establish multiple camps at progressively higher elevations to facilitate acclimatization and rest periods between strenuous climbing days. Campsites are strategically located on the mountain’s slopes, providing shelter and safety amidst the harsh alpine environment.
As climbers ascend higher, they encounter increasingly difficult challenges, including thin air, extreme cold, and high winds. Summit bids are carefully planned to coincide with favorable weather windows, maximizing the chances of a successful ascent while minimizing exposure to hazardous conditions.
Reaching the summit of Kanchenjunga is a monumental achievement that requires determination, perseverance, and teamwork. Upon reaching the summit, climbers are rewarded with unparalleled views of the surrounding Himalayan peaks and a profound sense of accomplishment.
Descending from the summit is equally demanding, as climbers must navigate the treacherous terrain with care and caution to ensure a safe return to base camp. Once back at base camp, climbers celebrate their achievement and begin the journey back to Kathmandu or Gangtok, where they reflect on their experiences and accomplishments.
The Kanchenjunga Expedition is a challenging and rewarding adventure that tests the limits of physical and mental endurance while offering climbers the opportunity to explore one of the world’s most remote and spectacular mountain environments. It is a journey that demands respect for the mountain and its unpredictable forces, yet rewards climbers with unforgettable memories and a deep appreciation for the majesty and grandeur of the Himalayas.
Highlights
- Climbing to the summit of Mount Kanchenjunga, the third highest peak in the world
- Challenging ascent through varied terrain including glaciers and rocky ridges
- Establishing multiple camps at higher elevations for acclimatization
- Stunning views of the Himalayan landscape from high altitudes
- Testing physical and mental endurance in extreme conditions
- Celebrating the achievement of reaching the summit with the team.
